I have found Ardustim when looking for an ECU simulator.
I have managed to use Ardustim to simulate 60-2 crank sensor and 2 cam sensors for a Peugeot 208 EB 3 cylinder engine (I'm not too sure if the cams are phased correctly to the crank) it does cause the coils to fire. Still trying to work out how to fool the O2 sensor to get the injectors firing. The crank/cam sensors are 3 wire.
On to my next challenge, I'm trying to simulate a 2 wire ABS wheel speed sensor to make the ABS think the wheels are turning.
Can anyone help on how to connect the Ardustim to the ABS pump and the components that are required to get this working.
I search around https://github.com/malcom2073 could't find Emstudio git. IIRC last year it still there. I now understand how to compile it in my Ubuntu 14.04 LTS, need this file to make my Coolefi basic ecu running.Â
at first i just want to introduce me and tell you what led me to this board…
I am an 48 year old german ( located in the area of Frankfurt / Hanau ) motorcycle rider. I worked as mechanic years ago and do all the maintenance on my bikes by myself. All my bikes are Kawasaki ZXR750 from 1993. There is one for street use and one for the track. I want to learn about efi in General. Therefore i will built a 3rd bike only for the Purpose of implementing injection on an carburated engine. This is no project with a fixed time Frame and the bike will have to be built. The parts are available out of spares for my track bike....
Displacement:Â Â Â 750ccm ( 45,7 cu in )
Compression:Â Â Â Â 11,5:1
Firing Order:Â Â Â Â Â 1243
Ignition System: transistorized ignition ( wasted spark )
Ignition Timing: 10 Degree BTDC @ 1100 rpm ~ 50 Degree BTDC @ 7000rpm
Crankshaft        VR Sensor ( will add pic of Trigger Wheel later ) *
Camshaft          -
Details about camshaft Timing is available
Transmission Ratios are available
CLT Sensor
* as far as i know the original triggerwheel won`t work well for an efi but i have been told this one should fit plug and play:
Also I bought the throttlebody from a different Motocycle which i `d been told should fit. But i am not to happy with the fitment and will take a look for a different one.
Wish List
Wideband O2 Sensor
MAP => can be used to replace CAM Sensor ( http://www.synchromap.com/ ) lowest pressure is Cylinder in working stroke ( I know at least two persons which did this on different motorcycles with MS3E ). One of them told me that he used MAP Sensor wich can read only up to 1bar for better resolution
MAT
CLT
COP
IndependentThrottleBody (Â TPS )
sequentiel Injection ( may be staged Injection )
shift light ( rpm is known , gear ratio also, additional Sensor at Gearbox output ) <= sounds like simple math
flat shifting => beeing able to shift under load without using the clutch
speed limiter <= not important just something "nice to have"
rev limiter
tach out
Data logging => Use of RTC and may be GPS
In a far far future i would like to learn more about the Suspension movements…
High Amp switches eg Fan gas pump and so on
I am able to do the wiring on my bikes but unfortunally i am a noob regarding to electronics. That means that i can solder something to a circuit board but i am unable to find out what is needed to fullfill my ideas bymyself. I hope to improve in that field while doing this conversion.
As far as i understand by now i could have a go with the coolefi Basic board but may have to ask them if they may replace the onboard map sensor with a different type ( MPX4250 1 bar MAP sensor ).
My idea is to start with wasted spark ( and may be injection ) to get the Problem with the missing cam sensor out of the way at the beginning. If that works fine i would try to make use of the MAP pressure Differenz in the different working strokes. But i am aware that i would need a lot of help to get this done. In principle i think it`s about 4 MAP sensors which deliver there data direct to the ems. Then it will be calculated when cylinder number one starts it`s work cycle by having the lowest MAP pressure. This should be possible at low rpm and can be cept up to the higest rpm ( ~ 12000 ) without new calculation as this does not change… If this can be made there is no need for an camshaft sensor and old engines like mine can use full sequientiel injection / ignition.
Now you know about my ideas / dreams and i would be more then happy to hear your recommendations and comments.
Am i at the Right place for this ideas?
Best regards: Klaus
P.S: In the attachment with the ignition curves only the one in the lower Right is for my bike. But it`s a racing ignition. I thought it could be something like a hint...
Help !
First of all I am a novice to programming and handling code.
Did use the Druid4arduino before on the arduistim, don't aks how I did it it worked (windows 10 machine).
Now I want to use it again but having trouble to understand how to use and upload SerialUI.
I am using a Atmega 328 on a breadboard an I am able to run a (arduino)Â blink program on it.
So communication between laptop and atmega is OK.
Hello everyone. I must confess I am a complete newb and expect to need substantial assistance to bring my idea to fruition. I'm hoping that what I want to do is comparatively simple to that which you folks have already been able to accomplish with LibreEMS that you think it's a bit of a laugh.
Here's what I want to do; Build a standalone variable valve timing controller that works in parallel with my factory ECU, which will allow me to control my exhaust cams.
Why? I'm replacing the motor in my 2003 Maxima (VQ35DE) with a 2013 motor. My factory ECU is capable of running the motor (with a couple minor modifications) but EVT was added to these motors in 2009 and I would like to take advantage for done extra top end power. I am able to flash my ECU to adjust fuel and timing and want to retain as much of the stock features as possible with minimal wiring.
Rather than just thinking of myself, I'd like to build something that would have broad applications. So 5 trigger inputs, 4 PWM outputs, an input capable of engine load (probably MAP, is MAF necessary for the application?), and some additional analog inputs/outputs for whatever your heart desires.Â
So from what I've read so far, the capability to do this exists in the firmware but I'd like to build a single piece of hardware to do so. Obviously no coil or injector drivers are required.
Please prompt me in a useful direction, like I said I'm a newb but I'm capable of learning and intend to see this through. Thanks in advance! Please relocate thread if this is deemed to be in the wrong location.
My personal application has a crank trigger of 10 -2, 10 -2, 10 -2 which I need to keep. My exhaust cams have 3 tabs each. I attached the crank and intake cam trigger patterns, haven't found an EVT trigger log.
I'm gathering information/TODOs for a re-spin of the F16 board. So far we have the following:
  * Remove jumper blocks for low-side drivers, since GPIO can be mixed with precision outputs  - SeanK
 * Revise power supplies - AbeFM
 * Replace CMC80 connector with AMPSeal  - AbeFM
 * Add 6-8 amp H-Bridge driver for DWB  -  AbeFM
 * Revise CAN phy  -  AbeFM
 * Remove stand-by circuits  - SeanK
 * Tie PWM controls to low-side drivers and eliminate jumper blocks  - SeanK
 * Remove jumper blocks for high-side drivers - SeanK
 * Add 2x MAX9926 chips for a total of 4  - SeanK
 * New layout - AbeFM
I need a special output (secondary fan) to connect and disconnect the rectifiers sense wire to battery.
On the OEM ecu it works like.
Igntion key on> connect sense wire to battery
Ignition key off > disconnect sense wire with a 2 second time delay.
Sense wire is also connected to OEM ecu.
I have a basic ECU and running some test.
Using this Firmware:
[/url]LibreEMS-v0.4.0-2-g98dd7d8-SEANKR1-XGATE-Crank8x_Cam1x.s19[/url]
2016-11-16 19:33
And the Ardustim with the right wheel code.
In Emstudio I get the right rpm's (1000 rpm) on screen.
LSD4, fuelpump
LSD1, fanswitch 1
LSD2, fanswitch 2
Those outputs seem to work as expected.
But IGN1, IGN2, INJ1 and INJ2 don't work as expected.
I connected leds to them and setup for +/_ 20 mA.
IGN1 and IGN2 are setup for 5Vdc.
The connected leds stay on and don't switch on/off as they should do.
Also measured R44 and R45 witch stay at 0Vdc to ground.
INJ1 and INJ2.
The connected leds stay on but in a dim glowing way.
At first I tought this might happen because of the light load (leds 20mA).
But no switching on to full power.
Also measured R61 and R57 witch stay at 0Vdc to ground.
Looks like there are no outputs switching on in the controller.
Did I miss some setting/ soldering bridge somewhere ?
